I really like the color scheme you've used, including its current brightness level. It's certainly unusual, and that definitely gives it a spirit-world flavor.
I concur with the others regarding the farms; the textured look to them does not match the rest of the hand-drawn style, and the colors are jarring. I think that's mostly a matter of them being over saturated.
Regarding your text, I think the script style works for the larger labels, but it gets very difficult to read the smaller you go. I don't think any amount of glow or stroke will help that. I think what you need is to select a very legible secondary font that matches the style but is more traditional in shape. It definitely should not have any swashes. I don't have any suggestions off the top of my head, though.
I think you should do something to tone down the whites of the heraldic shields. Either add a little bit of tint to them, or perhaps change their blend mode to multiply so the white vanishes. Likewise, the white trees need some color. They don't necessarily need a lot, but a very light cool gray will help them integrate better into the rest of the map.
Overall, I really like this map. Good job, and I'm looking forward to your next revision.