Axis & Allies Miniatures Map

[Xaviar Eldor Eissturm]

I try to create a axis & allies map, but have some problems with it. I use TheGimp and Inkscape (if necessary).



1) i've some problems to create forests. May be some one could give me some advices?
2) can you give me some reply?

[NeonKnight]

Looks good, I tried my hand making an A&A map, but I did mine with CC3, so, sorry, can't give much help.

[Gamerprinter]

Using a hex grid is great for regional maps. However, it seems your roads, towns, and forests are forced into their shape by the grids around them. Your map appears to have been created by one of those hex tile based mapping programs, except as you say, this is created in GIMP and Inkscape. So consider a natural freeform shape to your terrain features.

When I map, I place the grid as the very last thing. I do sometimes use a grid to help maintain scale throughout the process for complex maps, but I pre-create my grids and apply them as needed, usually at the end only, most of the time.

I suggest using the grids to help determine scale at this stage, but otherwise forget they exist and create your towns, roads and forests without any forced limitation. If your forests extended beyond the edges of a given hex and partially into other hexes creating a more random shape you would have great improvement. Apply this to your towns and roads, as well.

Your implied Hex limitation is too obvious and completely unnecessary. It is distracting.

Of your two forest samples, I prefer the one to the right of the other, though if your forest edge was rougher, the outline forest might still work. Colorwise and town/building quality look good!

GP

[NeonKnight]

Using a hex grid is great for regional maps. However, it seems your roads, towns, and forests are forced into their shape by the grids around them. Your map appears to have been created by one of those hex tile based mapping programs, except as you say, this is created in GIMP and Inkscape. So consider a natural freeform shape to your terrain features.

When I map, I place the grid as the very last thing. I do sometimes use a grid to help maintain scale throughout the process for complex maps, but I pre-create my grids and apply them as needed, usually at the end only most of the time.

I suggest using the grids to help determine scale at this stage, but otherwise forget they exist and create your towns, roads and forests without any forced limitation. If your forests extended beyond the edges of a given hex and partially into other hexes creating a more random shape you would have great improvement. Apply this to your towns and roads.

Your implied Hex limitation is too obvious and completely unnecessary.

Of your two forest samples, I prefer the one to the right of the other.

GP

Except, Axis & Allies is a miniature game played on a HEX gridded map, so unfortunately, the terrain must be constrained by the grid. Artificial I know, but for the game to be played, that is how it has to be.

http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/aa/welcome

and

For example maps
http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x...le/ah20051121c

Here is the excerpt of Page 25 & 26 of the rulebook for A&A Minis, detailing the HEX terrain.

[Gamerprinter]

I have played Axis & Allies, primarily the board game, rather than the online version, and I understand the pieces for units work in hexes.

Thus using the hex grid is necessary for the game. Still, I really feel forcing map elements to the grid is unrealistic and takes away from the game. The game still works properly if the map was more authentic and still using the grid.

Just an opinion. Of course, if those are the rules, then those are the rules.

GP

[NeonKnight]

Yeah, on the whole most things can be done without constraining ones self to the HEX except for a few minor things:

Bluffs

&

Hedgerows.

Those two items only seem extremely confined to HEXES as the rules for them specifically mention them running along a HEX edge.

Mostly though, an terrain feature must fill most of the hex for that hex to be considered that terrain. The DOTs in the center of the hexes are used for determining Line Of Sight (you check from centre of one hex to centre of another hex), and if it crosses a hex of LoS blocking terrain, a piece cannot see another piece.

[Hoel]

You have improved quite a bit from the first to the newest post.
The craters look a bit shiny thou. You should take the highlight down a notch and maybe go over the edge with a bit of grungy mud....

[slackingisnotacrime]

You have improved quite a bit from the first to the newest post.
The craters look a bit shiny thou. You should take the highlight down a notch and maybe go over the edge with a bit of grungy mud....

Thanks for the advice... But I'm a newbie here.

[Gamerprinter]

Actually, Hoel, is a new member as well, perhaps more technically skilled one, but a noob just the same.

Hoel, maybe you should explain specific tools and brushes, that Slacking isn't aware.

SINAC, that's what I'm calling you (your name is too long ) - anyway, the repeating pattern in your forest is a bit strong. You need a larger sample or an overlay rough shape containg the same texture fill, but moved slightly to help hide that repeating pattern.

Also, when you post a map, click the "Manage Attachments" button beneath the text editor. This will open a menu allowing you to upload files from your computer, or via a link from elsewhere online. It will produce a thumbnail linked to its full size. So you don't have to post large, but reduced views of your maps. Its preferencial that you do it that way.

Also, we have a thing called "Rep" for reputation. For posting some nice maps in your first posts, I'm giving you REP! Welcome to the Guild!

GP

[Nomadic]

Actually, Hoel, is a new member as well, perhaps more technically skilled one, but a noob just the same.

I think he meant that Hoel had confused him for the topic starter when he is actually a brand new member.