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Thread: [Award Winner] Making mountains in Gimp using an overlay layer

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  1. #1
    Community Leader Facebook Connected torstan's Avatar
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    Now when I set the layer to overlay again, I get the following:

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    So to recap, by using an overlay layer you can change a flat image to one with a bit of form and shape. This can be used to create light and shade fro scratch, but can also be used later on to enhance the light and shade already present in a piece. The trick really lies in creating a reasonable layer.

    Here's the three different images created in three different ways during this tutorial. I hope it was useful.

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    Community Leader jfrazierjr's Avatar
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    I use the smudge trick all the time, and I have to say, that even thought it takes a long time, you can produce some stunning results. I typically take a second pass at bump mapping after I have run the smudge tool on the first bump mapped version and this really gets some very nice results after you have played with it for a while. The biggest issue with the second bump map pass after using smudge is that sometimes it looks horrible, so you have to choose your brush and brush size carefully to get the right effect when smudging.

    Thanks for the nice tut Torstan!!! rep++++++

    For those interested, here is an example using the third method plus a bit of playing around.
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    Last edited by jfrazierjr; 04-02-2009 at 02:46 PM.
    My Finished Maps
    Works in Progress(or abandoned tests)
    My Tutorials:
    Explanation of Layer Masks in GIMP
    How to create ISO Mountains in GIMP/PS using the Smudge tool
    ----------------------------------------------------------
    Unless otherwise stated by me in the post, all work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial 3.0 United States License.

  3. #3
    Community Leader Facebook Connected torstan's Avatar
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    Thanks Joe, I wanted to create a tutorial that shows both a hand drawn approach (I include smudging in this category) and an automated approach.

    I like those mountains a lot. I'd perhaps say that the shadows near the ridgelines are a little extreme compared to the rest of the mountain - the shadows should stay dark for most of the width of the mountain before tailing off around the base. Also, the river bump mapping is really extreme - the banks of the rivers have a stronger shadow than the mountains! Great map though - and a lovely example of what can be done with texture and colour and then enhanced with a bit of light and shade.

  4. #4
    Community Leader jfrazierjr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by torstan View Post
    Thanks Joe, I wanted to create a tutorial that shows both a hand drawn approach (I include smudging in this category) and an automated approach.

    I like those mountains a lot. I'd perhaps say that the shadows near the ridgelines are a little extreme compared to the rest of the mountain - the shadows should stay dark for most of the width of the mountain before tailing off around the base. Also, the river bump mapping is really extreme - the banks of the rivers have a stronger shadow than the mountains! Great map though - and a lovely example of what can be done with texture and colour and then enhanced with a bit of light and shade.
    Thanks. The one I like THE BEST,was here(but I did not "do up" the entire mountain chain): http://www.cartographersguild.com/sh...1&postcount=22

    As for the rivers, if you notice, there is only a bit of bump mapping in certain places. I was trying to signify some fairly steep cliffs in those few locations. OF course, they were the result of a bit more automation than the mountains also, so I can see your point but at the time, I really did not know how to do it the right way...
    My Finished Maps
    Works in Progress(or abandoned tests)
    My Tutorials:
    Explanation of Layer Masks in GIMP
    How to create ISO Mountains in GIMP/PS using the Smudge tool
    ----------------------------------------------------------
    Unless otherwise stated by me in the post, all work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial 3.0 United States License.

  5. #5
    Community Leader jfrazierjr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by torstan View Post
    Thanks Joe, I wanted to create a tutorial that shows both a hand drawn approach (I include smudging in this category) and an automated approach.

    I really like your first example, but I have not been able to get something I like using that more hand drawn approach. Of course, when I try, it is usually at work during my lunch, so I don't have my tablet and probably forget to make multiple passes with the opacity dialed down. Will have to remember that next time I give it a whirl.

    To be honest, re-reading the first steps, I am surprised you used the paintbrush instead of dodge/blur since you tend to use that so often when building up the shadows/highlights on the grey layer.
    Last edited by jfrazierjr; 04-02-2009 at 03:15 PM.
    My Finished Maps
    Works in Progress(or abandoned tests)
    My Tutorials:
    Explanation of Layer Masks in GIMP
    How to create ISO Mountains in GIMP/PS using the Smudge tool
    ----------------------------------------------------------
    Unless otherwise stated by me in the post, all work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial 3.0 United States License.

  6. #6
    Community Leader Facebook Connected torstan's Avatar
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    I've gone back to using paintbrushes for this rather than dodge and burn because it's faster. I find it quicker these days to get a result I like with the paintbrushes and smudge to take off hard edges rather than dodge and burn. I also like being able to lay in precise highlights and shadows directly rather than having to build them up. I guess it's just the result of having to do maps to deadline these days rather than working over them over a length of time. However, as with all things in this, the more care and attention you pay and the more detail you build up, the better the final product will look.

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