Mapping in Paint.NET - a basic tutorial

[PeaceHeather]

Stage 3.5 – Ocean texture

Yeah, the ocean operates a little differently from the other layers. There are fewer steps in setting up the texture, mainly because we can't use any masking until later or the sea will look weird.

Go back to the very bottom layer of clouds, and hide everything else. (Even if you're experimenting with what layers to use, your ocean has to be made from the lowest "elevation" layer.)
Duplicate once only – we're not making a mask yet – and ignore the bottom layer.

On this second layer, Effects > Stylize > Engrave/Emboss
I like to keep the same pixel width as I use in the land, and while I usually use Emboss as I did on the land, I occasionally find that Engraving the sea, looks better. Try it both ways to see which you like. You could also adjust the pixel width to diminish the differences in ocean depth and give a smoother, more "surface"-like appearance.
In the layers window, select Layer Properties. Change the Blend Mode to Overlay.
Hide Layer.

For the impatient: Since so much of what you're doing is repeated on each layer, you could choose to lump each action together: duplicate everything, rename everything, run the Emboss on everything, run the Threshold and Alpha Mask on everything, and then merge everything. The Repeat Effect command, CTRL-F, would become your friend for quite a lot of these steps.

[PeaceHeather]

Stage 4 – Colors, colors, colors

Coloring in the layers is a blast, but it is slightly more involved than the previous stages. PDN's gradient mapping plugin lets you select and blend the colors seamlessly on each layer, but it needs to be reset each time for the next set of colors. Most of this involves a dance of right-clicking and left-clicking, and is easier to do than it is to explain.

There is also a bit of selecting and inverting, which, if you're a beginner, sounds more intimidating than it really is. All you're doing is taking something that would be difficult to select or outline or whatever, and selecting the space around it instead. Then, you "invert" the selection, and your complicated shape is selected, and you can do whatever you want with it and – this is the best part – not affect the space outside the selection. This will be important when we're coloring things, and only want to color the land and not the whole bloody canvas.

Interlude – Decisions, decisions

This interlude is specifically for those of you who decided to duplicate your bottom layer and use it as both ocean and land. You don't have to worry about the choices for all of your layers just yet, but you do need to decide whether you're going to keep that duplicate layer for your lowlands. When we color our ocean, the shallowest parts will have the lightest color (duh), and unless we make an adjustment to the ocean layer, the lightest colors will actually end up hidden under our landmass. So we need to know which land layer will rest at "sea level".

Select the ocean layer, but not the ocean texture, so that you can only see clouds.
Select one of the land texture layers, so you can see embossed land on a smooth ocean.
Switch back and forth between the texture layers of the two lowest "elevations" and see which one you like best.
Label your favorite "Land Texture", label its corresponding cloud layer Land, and pause for a moment to feel godlike in your world-building genius.

Now that we've made that decision, we can get back to coloring things in. The most important part of using the gradient map is making sure that you're selecting your landmasses beforehand, so you only color your selection rather than applying the gradient to the entire layer.

First, a bit of setup for the ocean, because of course it doesn't operate the same as the land layers:

Go to the Land layer.

Magic Wand (tolerance is still 0, right?)
Select anywhere in the clear areas
Hit CTRL-I to invert the selection
In the layers window:

Hide the Land Layer
Create New Layer; select it if PDN hasn't done so for you

In the tools window, click Flood Fill
In the colors window, switch to white

On the new layer:

Fill Mode "Global"
Fill in the selection
Label this layer Blur, and hide it. We'll come back to it later.

If necessary (ie, if the little marching ants are gone), go back to the Land Layer and do the Magic Wand, Select, Invert thing again.
On the Ocean layer

Hit the Delete key. You should now see a layer of clouds with cutouts where the landmasses are supposed to go.

Repeat the select, invert, delete thing on the Ocean Texture layer.

Hit ESC to cancel the selection.

[PeaceHeather]

And now, finally, we can get to work coloring the ocean.

Hide everything except the ocean layer. (Once you get the hang of it, this becomes optional)
Select the cutouts on the ocean, then invert the selection (CTRL-I).
Go to Adjustments > Gradient Mapping

Immediately, the default hideous black to red to white gradient will be applied. Right click on the darkest color, and select "Change Color". The color wheel will pop up, including your palette colors as added way back in the beginning of this tut.

Select the darkest shade of blue and click OK.
Right-click the gradient bar and select Add Color, and add the other three shades of blue to the gradient, working from dark to light. (You can either remove or change the middle shade of red.)
Leave white as the brightest color.

Now for the fun part. Each of these colors (except the ends) is on a slider, and you can tweak the look of your entire ocean just by shifting them around. You can also check the Reverse Colors box and see what the gradient looks like from the opposite direction; I often prefer to do this with the ocean because it puts my darkest shades out where the "deepest" water ought to be. I also take my continental shelf into consideration, and try to have a decent light colored band around each landmass.
When you're happy, click OK.

Unhide the Ocean texture layer and make sure its blend mode is set to Overlay. Feel free to experiment with different blend styles, opacity, and ordering of layers (texture on top, or under the color, etc.).
When you're happy, you can hide the ocean layers, or leave them visible, and watch your world build itself up layer by layer.

[PeaceHeather]

Go to the land layer.
With the magic wand, select in the clear area, then CTRL-I to invert the selection.
Go to Adjustments > Gradient Mapping.

The ocean gradient will apply itself to your land. Don't panic. Just right click each slider, select Change Color, and pick a green shade from your palette.

With the ocean, we went ahead and kept white as our brightest color, plus our four blues for a total of five shades. With the ground we're not going to do that; eliminate one of the sliders in the middle, and change the white to your lightest green shade.

As before, move the sliders around to find a color scheme that you like, then click OK.

Unhide the land texture layer, set its blend mode to Overlay, and move on.
The Highland layer works exactly the same:

Go to Layer
Select and Invert
Gradient Map
Change the colors to your brown range
Adjust to taste
Click OK
Unhide the texture, set to Overlay.

The Mountain layer is almost the same, but not quite. Instead of using four colors, we're only going to use two or three (your choice). The dark end of the gradient is 50% gray, and the light end is white. If you choose to add a third color, use 25% gray, and move that slider to adjust the look of your peaks. Occasionally, I'll add an additional color and make my bottom 75% gray, followed by 50%, 25%, and white.

How awesome is that?

[PeaceHeather]

Stage 5 – Finishing touches

I haven't included how-to images in this part of the tutorial, because I cover several options, and because if you wanted, you could stop after the Blur layer is done, and probably be happy.

Go to your Blur layer, somewhere down among your ocean layers.

Effects > Blur > Gaussian Blur, anywhere between 20 and 50 pixels wide.

This will further lighten the water nearest your coast and kind of give the impression of breaking waves or spray, or whatever.

Move this layer around, see whether you like it above the texture or between it and the color layers.

Go to the Ocean layer

Add Noise (optional)

Color saturation can be anywhere between the default and 0; I usually prefer 0.
Coverage at the default 100.
Intensity – the default is 64 but I usually prefer something less than that. You're just looking to soften the layer and make it look a little less like a solid and more fluid.
Click OK.

Effects > Blur > Motion Blur

The default angle is 25 degrees; I usually prefer something around -30.
The default distance is 10; I prefer anything from 3 to 7 at most.
Click OK

Another option is to go to the ocean texture layer, and use the plugin Effects > Distort > Crystallize, with a setting around 5. This gives a really nice dappled effect, and with a slight blur applied, the water appears much softer.

Go to the Land Texture layer, and adjust the opacity.

The overlay blend mode gives you good texturing but can do odd things to your land colors; making the texture a little more transparent doesn't hurt the embossing, but does a world of good to your color scheme.

Go to the land layer

Duplicate
Play with various blurs and blend modes to see if there is anything you like. I'm fond of a blend mode of Multiply, and then adjusting the opacity down until I'm happy. Sometimes' I'll also add a slight Gaussian blur to this layer, but it depends on the landmasses to a large extent..

Done! Well, mostly.

Unfinished business

I still don’t have any rivers, labels, place-names, or any of that, but at the same time, dang this looks nifty. If you really want to curl your toes, get Shape3D along with the other plugins I recommended at the beginning of this tutorial, and use it to map this image onto a sphere – instant planet, just add atmosphere.

Hope you all enjoyed.

[Korash]

Looking Sexy

I think I am gonna try this in gimp. I always have trouble deciding what to do for random land masses.

Repped and will rate later after i try it out.

Good job.