Thanks for the tip, Ravells. I probably picked the wrong program out of the hat. I've got Inkscape, I'll try importing the map into that and see if I can get better labels that way - I'm still not happy with them.

I actually like the transparent label for the map title, but smaller fonts become unreadable on the forest background.

Thanks for the compliment Redrobes.

I wonder if Leprechauns like coffee...