Subterrainian Map Prettier Script

[zukeprime]

RobA,

Yes I did. But still hides the bottom. On my laptop, which is 1024x768 everything is displayed except for the very bottom choices. But i played with it and found that 3 Tabs and then Enter will execute the script. On my desktop, which is 1366x768 more is hidden so I don't know yet what all i have to press to get the script to execute. But I will play with it.

Viper

Apologize for the necro post...but noticed no one had a solution for Viper and figured someone could use this information in the future. Normally, for windows that are too large for a screen display area, simply holding the ALT key and dragging the window up will work. I have to do this all the time on my netbook, since the display area is so small.

BTW, this script is literally the best thing since sliced bread. I mean it!

[RobA]

Thanks for the kudos! Glad you like the script

-Rob A>

[Green-Pilgrim]

...and when holding the ALT key and dragging the window up won't work?

[Almajis]

I'm having the same problem, the buttons hide at the bottom. Also, since you cannot resize the window, the other solutions do not apply. What can we do? Could RobA update the file?

[Thomas Sanjurjo]

So, I just found this because I'm making some new maps. Having the same window problem, I think it's related to 2.8.

Would love for Rob to revisit necropost and update the script to be more user friendly, but in the meantime, two solutions:

1. the only buttons missing are the execute buttons (as far as my system is concerned) and you can just commit the changes by pushing alt+O or Shift tab *twice* from the first entry.

2. You could turn your screen display sideways (ctrl+alt+right_arrow on windows) and see the whole window from there.

Great script man, thanks for the work on it, going to save me a ton of time.

[RobA]

The window size is a limit of script-fu - you can't do anything about it from the script - I'd have to port the whole thing over to python to change it at the moment.


There is a thread over at Gimp-Ghat where someone has recompiled to provide scrolling in script-fu dialogs:

Script-Fu Interface Scrolling Modification V1.0 Official Release ? GIMP Chat

YMMV-

-Rob A>

[Obscu]

This is literally magic. I'm staring down the barrel of manually recreating the World's Largest Dungeon to run for a party on Roll20.net and Rob you are an actual angel.

[aerduin]

Rob - thanks for the great script. I have always loved fantasy maps, dungeons, etc. and loved combing through all the artwork in the D&D books as a kid. I am somewhat new to GIMP and digital design in general, but have been looking to get into creating fantasy maps and dungeons in my free time.

I found this forum and it seems like it is a great community for aspiring and veteran digital cartographers and map makers. Also, I will admit it took me roughly a day to get this finished product. I had several other attempts yesterday that didnt turn out very well - grids not lining up, the floor and walls were mixed up, sizing/spacing issues, etc - as I am still learning how to use GIMP, but I am happy with the results. I do have some questions though, and will try to phrase them in an understandable manner.

1. how do you get your wall edges to look rough like that, in your example dungeon picture? mine are pretty clean and smooth compared to yours.

2. also yours looks a little more beveled than mine - do i just change the stroke level or something?

3. i am still learning about image size, pixels per inch, grid sizing, grid spacing, etc., and how to get things to line up properly... any tips on how to understand or make sense of all that? like.. explain it like im 5?

any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Again, thanks for this great script and all the contributions to the forum.

Here is my first attempt at making a very simple dungeon using your script. I am using GIMP v2.8.16 along with the grid script and dungeon make script.

I set my image to 900x900 px. with resolution of 100x100 ppi
I went to Image->Grid and set spacing to 2x2
I went to Image->Guides->Grid and set it to 50x50 spacing of guides(px) and checked border guides
I went to Filters->Dungeon Map Maker and set the following:
Grid Size = 50
Template Color = Black (used selection tool for rooms/hallways and filled with black)
Template Color Identifies = Floors
Fill Floor With = Rendered Noise
Grid Color = Black
Fill Walls With = Rendered Noise

[aerduin]

ok - so i figured out the answer to question #1 - i changed the 'Distort Amount' on the Dungeon Map Maker script to 25 (results below)

would still be interested in answers to the other 2 questions.
2. also yours looks a little more beveled than mine - do i just change the stroke level or something?

3. i am still learning about image size, pixels per inch, grid sizing, grid spacing, etc., and how to get things to line up properly... any tips on how to understand or make sense of all that? like.. explain it like im 5?

[Midgardsormr]

3. i am still learning about image size, pixels per inch, grid sizing, grid spacing, etc., and how to get things to line up properly... any tips on how to understand or make sense of all that? like.. explain it like im 5?

Let's start with physical size: What you'd expect to see on paper. A typical map that you'd find folded up in the back of a gaming supplement might be about 20 inches x 32 inches (5 x 8 folded in half twice). If it's a battlemat with standard 1-inch = 5-feet squares, you'd have a 32 x 20 square map, which covers extents of 160 feet x 100 feet.

Now, a "high quality" print is 300 dots per inch. That usually looks really good at arm's length. An art print, as johnvanvliet has said, is 600+ dpi, but in my opinion that's really overkill for these kinds of images. For a poster-sized print, I would go no higher than 300, and I'd only go that high if I was planning on printing to very nice paper. Low quality paper just won't hold the ink well enough if you're printing full-color. I have gone as low as 120 dpi and been satisfied with the quality for a poster map.

Okay, so let's assume that you want your map to look really good close-up, and it's going to be 32" x 20". 300 dpi * 32 inches = 9600 pixels. 300 * 20 inches = 6000 pixels. So if that were your target, you would want your eventual image to be 9600 x 6000 pixels.

All of this assumes that you are going to print your image. If it's not going to a printer, dpi doesn't matter!

BUT, the image resolution—the actual pixel dimensions—are still a pretty good guideline for your final output. If it turns out too big to view comfortably, it's very easy to scale down. It's almost impossible to scale up.

A virtual tabletop (VTT) such as Roll20 or MapTool will usually have a recomended resolution per square. It can be anywhere from 50 - 150 pixels per square. Using what you know about typical battlemats above, you can do the math to discover that 32 squares (inches) * 100 pixels/square = 3200 pixels. So using your target sizes, you know what size you want to make your ultimate image.

Now, that doesn't say anything about working resolution. As I mentioned, it's easy to scale an image down, but hard to scale it up. So you never want to work at a smaller size than your eventual final image. Some people like to work at twice the resolution of their eventual image. I prefer to work at my actual resolution so that I know exactly what the end result will look like as I am working and because resource management is easier that way. Remember that since you're working in two dimensions, doubling the resolution (twice as wide) actually quadruples the data you're dealing with! (Twice as wide * twice as tall = 4 times as big.) If you're already aiming at a pretty big image, quadrupling it to work on it could make it unmanageable. But I do usually work as if I am eventually going to print at 300 dpi. After all, if I make a really cool image, I like to have the option of putting it on my wall some day!